Spanish Molecular Cuisine at DM Innovacion (Taipei)

February 16, 2014 in Food, Reviews, Taiwan, Travel by pacejmiller

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I don’t really have much of a clue about molecular cuisine (I think they break stuff down and put it together again), but I heard that there is a place in Taiwan that serves it, Spanish style. That restaurant is DM Innovacion, situated in Taipei’s busy Xinyi district not too far from the Vieshow cinemas. Price-wise it’s not too unreasonable, with a business lunch set for NT$550, a lunch set for NT$980 and a deluxe lunch/dinner set for NT$1800. Remember there is also a 10% service charge for everything.

We visited a while ago, and this is what we had.

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Good variety on the house bread with olive oil and a dash of balsamic vinegar. I don’t recall any of them being a knockout but it’s always good when the servings are small and you get lot of choices.

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This was kind of a wacky chicken caesar salad. Presented well, but it was really just two big slices of lettuce with chunks of cold chicken, some bacon bits and splashes of dressing. Interesting, but nothing special.

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This appetizer contained mushrooms, tomato caviar and squid, with a thick cold soup on the side. Again, interesting dishes I haven’t tried before, but they sounded and looked better than they actually tasted. The caviar in particular was a slight disappointment.

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I can’t remember what this pastry thing was, so it couldn’t have been that good.

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This was one suggestion I thought we should definitely try. It’s a molecular take on the classic Taiwanese stewed beef noodle soup, and it looks kind of interesting with that dark broth, thick flat noodles and spring onions on the side. Unfortunately, you’d probably find better beef noodle soup at your local corner restaurant. The soup was salt, lukewarm and not very inspiring.

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I believe this is their trademark dish, the Spanish Iberico suckling pig. Crispy skin, salty pork and flavoursome sauce and a couple of roasted vegetables to balance things out. It was good but not quite the spectacular game-changer I had hoped.

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This was a duck breast with a dark truffle sauce and a creamy risotto. I love truffle but there wasn’t anything particularly special about the duck, and the risotto was surprisingly bland.

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Lastly, the two desserts, a homemade berry sorbet and a ice cream. Mmm…not bad.

In the end, I was disappointed with the overall experience at DN Innovacion. Nice location and comfortable decor, professional service and wonderful displays of creativity and innovation in the dishes. But the most important aspect of the visit, the taste of the food itself, was lacking. It was by no means bad, but just not at the level I expected.

7.5/10

Details

DN Innovacion

Address: 93 Songren Rd, Xinyi District, Taipei (nearest MRT Taipei City Hall)

Phone: +886 2 8780 1155

Website: http://www.dn-asia.com/v2/?lang=en